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Dipping Your Models - Compiled by Daffrid | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| This article is complied from various peoples
experiments with 'Dipping' from the forums of this website, all credit goes
to them.
The Dipping technique exploded onto the modelling scene in late 2005 causing celebration to the masses bringing with it the possibility of producing high quality looking miniatures with the minimum amount of skill needed. Indeed for horde armies such as Tyranids this seams like the dream technique. So what is Dipping? Dipping began as the technique of taking a figure in base coat colours, and submerging it into a wood-stain. The excess wood stain has to then be shaken off, then the figure is left to dry, and (should) be of excellent table top quality. After some experimentation the technique developed from a 'dip and shake' to a 'paint the dip' when the stain is applied in a controlled fashion with a brush. Both methods will be covered by this article. Classic DippingThe Classic method of 'dipping', using the technique as described by Pertinax: [1] Here are my Kroot, they are mounted on an inverted flying base, which are inserted into a 2x4 block of wood with holes drilled into it. This means that I can leave the figures to dry on a stable surface and they will stay vertical, with no risk of them falling over. It also means that I can spray them simply and quickly, whilst at the same time moving them from A to B without much risk of tipping them over in the process.[2] Once they are undercoated with a white spray, I painted the base colours on. The colours I have used here are Desert Yellow for the skin, applied liberally and without too much concern as it is the base colour. The leathers are painted bestial brown, the chest and belly are painted white, all the metal areas are painted with Bolt Gun Metal. It is worth noting at this point that once you have dipped the figure, the stain will stain ALL the colours, and will even-out a lot of the contrasts. So you have to pick colours at this stage that have a strong contrast. I tried Bleached Bone next to the Desert Yellow, and it came out to pretty much the same colour. I added Catachan green mottling to the foreheads of the Kroot for variety. After the later stages, the models should be painted to a good, precise standard. [3] I use a pot of "Liberon Bistrol Lakk" for dipping, this stuff is a polyurethane stain, with a silk 'matt' finish, it can also be found in high 'gloss' (shiny). The website for the producers is www.v33.com it is quite expensive, but should be available across Europe, there are comparable dips in the UK/USA [more on this later-Ed]. It takes between 12 and 24 hours to dry, if you make a mess, then you have to clean it up with White Spirit. [4] So, holding the spike of the flying base, I dip the Kroot into the pot. Once they are fully submerged, I take them out and let it run off, the dip has a syrup-like viscosity. Once it is not dripping any more, then it is time to start to shake the figure. [5] It is important to note that at this point, no matter how well trained your arms are, repeated waving them with a jarring motion against your elbow is not a good idea. I have given myself a form of tennis elbow from this, so now I use sharp flicks of the wrist. In order to catch the drips, I shake the figures in a small box. It is worth noting that the excess dip drops will travel a long way, so you have to try to flick/shake the figure in a way that the box will catch most/all of the drops. I have now a dedicated fleece jumper that I use when dipping, with wood stain stains up the right arm. I shake the Kroot about 20 times or so, when you see that there is no more dip coming off for about 5 shakes, then you have probably done the job well. I tend to do 5 more shakes after that. [6abc] So what do the dipped figures look like? These Kroot have just been dipped. They are back on the 2x4, and are going to dry for the next day. For goodness sake, let them dry in a dust free environment. Once they have dried for a day (24hours), and the surface is not tacky (it should loose part of its shine in this time). [7] All that remains is to base them up and set them loose on the battlefield.
In his trials Pertinax and others perfected various methods of 'shaking' the dip off using a variety of grips and tools. This method is not without danger though as models have to be firmly gripped or they will fly off into the sunset, and depending on their size the shear force exerted on them can cause legs/joints to physically break/snap damaging your model. Extra special care should be taken when shaking Resin cast models such as those purchased from Forgeworld as the resin is not very stress resistant. In an effort to minimize strain on both the gamer and the model an alternate method to shaking was discovered. Spinning the dip off through rapid rotation rather than shaking (imagine a caveman/boy-scout starting a fire). Pertinax drilled a hole in through the base of the figure, then took a stick from a plant pot, and drilled and glued a flying base pole into the end of it. The other end of the flying base pole then slotted into the hole that I had drilled into the base [4]. The snug fit allowed for the model to be spun rapidly without it flying off. Dipping Tips 1: The figure has to be dust free. That means that you should probably not dip something that has been lying around for a while. 2: The figure has to be mounted on a sturdy base. It will have to take some serious shaking/spinning. 3: The wood stain is best used outside, due to the odour, and the spray caused by the excess dip. 4: When Spinning the figure, do it pointing upright rather than down. 5. Don't bother painting on the eyes before you dip, they get drowned in stain and you have to paint them on again later. 6: When making larger models try dipping the pieces separately. 7: Unlike model paint wood stain is not water-based, if it is too dark for you then you can use white-spirit as a thinner (too much can cause the glaze to crack though). 8: Too much dip can accumulate in some of the larger crevices on a model (welling up), a brush can be used to remove the excess dip before it dries. Looking at the larger flatter expanses, there are two problems. 7. The dip has to dry whilst the surface is flat. Otherwise, it will pool 8. The dip has to be removed from the surface evenly. Otherwise, it will streak New-Wave Dipping A later development in dipping resulted in no actual 'dipping' occurring at all, the stain is merely painted on with a brush, allowing you more control and the ability to use different shades of dip on different areas. In essence it is the same as if you were 'inking' the model only thicker (any excess still needs to be removed though). Once applied remember to hold or support the model upside down for the varnish to run upwards into the higher recesses of the miniature. Before 10 mins is up, turn the model right way up for the excess varnish to settle downwards again. Black Daemon Templar provides this rather nice visual comparison between the two styles
Hmm They Are Good, But A Bit Shiny Depending on the type of dip that you use, some dips will create more shine than others, hence why we recommend you get a 'matt finish' variety dip, but even then there are ways to get around the shine issue. After the dip is dry (and aired) you can spray on a light coat of a dull finish varnish spray, either GW's 'ardcote' (which can go yellow over time) or Testors 'dullcote' which we thoroughly recommend. These matt spray varnishes do what they say on the tin, remove shine and add some extra protection to your models. Daffrid provides this nice stage-by-stage graphic to demonstrate the effect.
We recommend you do a few test models first to check the consistency; you can thin down (if water based) with water and (if polyurethane based) with white spirit. It's probably best you do this in a shed/outside or somewhere where stain spillages are not a huge problem; Dysartes.com refuses to pay for replacement carpets etc. Gallery We've split the dipped miniatures gallery into a separate page as it's
pretty download/bandwidth intensive, in it are over 50 pictures of peoples
dipped models.
Roll call: (in alphabetical order) Aaric, Big O, Black Daemon Templar, boon119, Daffrid, Dionysus, Dorkman, Froo, Garratt-J, Koppo, Llamarama, Moonduck, Orcdom, pamp-pu, rafi, Red Eyes, Skarmory The PG, Teutogen, Unknowndude, Wulf, zedd and whoever else chipped in along the way.Special praise to Pertinax for making the bulk of the material for this article. If you have any photos or dipping tips/experiences that you think deserve a mention why not send them to us and we can upload them here.
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