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Painting Orks the Shas'o Sodit way | |
| For every Whaaagh!!! there are Orkz, and for every Ork Army, there is a painter. Hi, for this article I will be showing you how I painted my Orkz for the TOTG article. This is quite a task as I paint to a high standard, and what better way to show that then on a website. Note: Sorry any pictures that show any problems, in the case of this model I didn't undercoat it properly. To copy the contents of this article you will need: At least 1 Ork Boy assembled and undercoated Chaos Black Brushes (well duh) Water (cleaning brushes) Tile (for mixing paints, etc) Small Fan Heater (For drying painted, etc, quickly) PVA Glue Flock (sand for this article) The folling citadel Colours: Chaos Black Field Grey (an equal mix of Chaos Black, Dark Angels Green and Codex Grey) Boltgun Metal Industrial Grey (a equal mix of Chaos Black and Codex Grey) Goblin Green Bleached Bone Snakebite Leather Skull White Blood Red Bestial Brown + Any other colours for camoflage Note: if you wish, after each section, paint Chaos Black onto any spillings of paint on the model. Another Note: put some of the paint onto the tile and add a little water, this makes the paint easier to apply. Section 1: The SkinThe Skin is the base of the Ork Models, most likely it will make the model noticeable. From experiance there are lots of way to do Ork Skin, but this method I find gives a professional look.Step 1:  With the model prepared for painting, first put Field Grey onto the skin, do not worry about going onto other parts of the model, those will be solved later. Step 2:  (Sorry for picture quality) With the Field Grey dried, paint Goblin Green onto the skin leaving the gaps between the muscles untouched, this makes the arms look big (Orky!). Step 3:  (Sorry for picture quality) With the paint dry, make a mix of 2 thirds Goblin Green and 1 third Bleached Bone, this mix shouldn't be too bright. Now apply this on the raised parts of the Ork skin, this proves a highlight for the skin. Section 2: The Teeth/teef and bone.I find painting bone difficult to get right, but this way is a good method.Step 1:  First apply Snakebite Leather to the areas you want as bone, most likely the teeth, nails and horns if the model has any. Step 2:  Now paint Bleached Bone onto the bone areas. For some this will do for teeth, but i've gone a stage further. Step 3 extra:  With the Bleached Bone dried, highlight the bone with skull white. Section 3: CamoflageNow it gets difficult, as each of my Ork models has their own camo scheme, so I will have to give ideas on how to your own camo:Urban:  Codex Grey highlighted with Fortress Grey. Sky:  Shadow Grey highlighted with an equal mix of Shadow Grey and Skull White. Mars:  Red Gore highlighted with Blood Red, highlighted with Blazing Orange. Ice:  Fortress Grey highlighted with Skull White. Strips of Chaos Black. Unknown:  Liche Purple highlighted with an equal mix of Liche Purple and Skull White. Step 4: MetalNow for me this is the most annoying stage of painting, so I had to make a quick and simple method which would make the metal looks decent.Step 1:  First paint each part of the model you wish to be metal with Boltgun Metal, most likely the Choppa blade and gun. Step 2:  Wait until the metal has dried before doing this. Now make a mix of 1 third Chaos Black, and 2 thirds water. Now apply this metal parts being careful to avoid it going onto the none matal parts, this will give a layer of shading. Put this next to the Fan Heater (obvousily have it turned on) to dry the model quickly. It should be dry in about a minute or 2, try not to leave them unatended, especially the metal models, they get hot! Section 5: Finishing touchesThis is where the little things like the Choppa handle, boots and eyes are done.Step 1:  Using Industrial Grey, highlight any of the remaining Chaos Black areas. Step 2:  (Sorry for picture quality) Using Blood Red on a paintbrush with a fine tip, paint the eyes, try and put the paint on the small ball in the sockets. The Eyes are finished (the shading given by the eye lids means no highlighting is needed). Step 3 (if necessary):  Now mix 2 thirds Blood Red and 1 third Skull White, now apply to the models tonque (if the model has one that is) carefully voiding the teeth. Section 6: BasingThis is the finishing part of any model, some people do this before painting the main model, but I do it after wards.Step 1:  Apply PVA glue to the top of the base, avoiding getting any on the feet of the model. Step 2:  Dunk the models base into the bag/box containing the flock. When removing the model from the container, shake the model over of the container to remove any excess sand. Step 3:  (Sorry that the Fan Heater isn't shown well) This can be done either while or after the PVA glue has dried. Put quite a bit of Bestial Brown on the tile, and add about 2 thirds/equal amount of water to the paint. Now apply that to the base, covering all the sand. Place the model in front Fan Heater. Step 4:  Repear Step 3, the Bestial Brown will not have covered the base very well. Place the model in front of the fan heater. Step 5:  Now put some Chaos Black onto the tile, and add an equal ammount of water to it. Now apply it to the top of the base, this makes the base appear darker and adds shading to the base. Now place the model next to the Fan Heater. Step 6:  Now with the Chaos Black dry, apply Bestial Brown to the edge of the base. Now place the models base on some tissue paper, and press down on the model and turn it around. This will remove the paint accidently put on the bottom of the model, doing this makes sure the model doesn't stick to whatever it was placed on.  Painting this way is actually quite easy, especially when painting it large groups of models. The only part this article doesn't cover very well is the painting of camoflage, but camoflage should be unique. I hope you have benefitted from this article. so until next month goodbye, good health and happy gaming! | |
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